The court of two sisters, New Orleans

The court of two sisters is a New Orleans institution. It has been nestled in the french quarter since 1832, a constant reminder of New Orleans historical past. It is named after the two sisters Emma and Bertha who had a shop at the location. It is also without a doubt must-visit for the jazz brunch. Having been given this piece of advice ourselves, we made a reservation for 11.30am as we knew it was a buffet. Nothing could have prepared us for what the jazz brunch actually entailed.

We arrived at this beautiful old restaurant with its old exposed brick work and tiled floor and were led through the the now famous courtyard. It was exactly as advised, with wrought iron awning s teeming with wonderful foliage and wisteria. The jazz band was playing us to our table at the front the courtyard, resplete with water features.

The jazz brunch is not cheap at $35, but is all you can eat, in this wonderfully decadent and romantic setting with unlimited teas, coffee and fruit juice. So, a cranberry juice and a coffee were the first order of the day whilst we perused the cocktail menu. We were after all in New Orleans and there is nothing the folks of N'Awlins like more than a drink at breakfast. We kept it fairly traditional with a Bloody Mary and it was good. Really good. They tend to top them with green beans over here.

It was then finally time to face the daunting prospect of selecting our brunch dishes. Upon closer inspection, it became clear that this was no brunch like I knew, but rather an extensive selection of the finest creole dishes and desserts to be sampled over many courses. It included a selection of hot and cold dishes, including one of the house specialities, turtle soup. I of course, did not partake in this. There was also roast brisket and turkey for the meat eaters.

The dishes are also helpfully colour coded to identify the vegetarian ones. I selected from the salad bar, the omelette station which made classic and creole shrimp omelettes and eggs benedict, as well as the hot plates.

Needless to say, Gipsy Spread was like a 'pig in woopsy' sampling all the classic Louisiana dishes such as the gumbo, catfish, crayfish and yes, this was our day to try grits. I can't say we were sold on it. So after a leasurely procession of dishes, we then had dessert to contend with. I could only do the one and opted for the traditional pecan pie, whilst Gipsy Spread worked his way around several of the desserts, topped off with ice cream. Can you sense me rolling my eyes? There was no room left to sample the King's cake below.

The food left nothing to be desired and the service was extremelly friendly, although, I couldn't get used to being referred to as 'my babbies' by our delightful waitress. Must be the English in me. She was super efficient and my juice was replenished in the blink of an eye.


So, we pretty much rolled out of there about three hours later, very happy and satisfied with our first morning in New Orleans, now for a wonder around the french quarter to walk it off. Whether you choose the brunch or a dinner in this exquisite colonial style restaurant, you will not be disappointed with the setting or the food. All of it is steeped in history.

District donuts-sliders-brew, New Orleans

We had walked from the French quarter all the way down Magazine Street past the warehouses to the lower garden district for the boutiques and antique shops. We pottered around this picturesque part of Town and then in need of refreshment stopped by District-donuts-sliders-brew. The seats outside, spilling across the pavement were full. We ventured inside this cavernouse old market/warehouse building and were greeted with a queue and a sign requesting that no individual purchase more than 18 donuts today to allow them to service all their customers. Clearly we had stumbled across a very popular place.

 

We had already had lunch, so were unable to try the mini sliders menu which looked fantastic. I watched with envy as people ordered three each, picked them up and then perched at the wooden bar or table to devour. I only wanted a drink and chose a large lemonade. Oh, my. It was proper southern lemonade, the best I have tasted anywhere. When this restaurant got lemons, it really made lemonade with it. The array of donuts on the side were large, bright and colourful. Gipsy Spread, not being able to help himself and yet to sample the NOLA beignets chose this location for his one and only taste of this local delicacy.

He was not disappointed and we got a sense of why people travel here to pick up many (clearly sometimes more than 18) donuts. There was a guy in scrubs in the queue for the food and we were trying to figure out how far he had come, i.e where was the nearest hospital to sample the food here? We would most definitely suggest that District.donuts.sliders.brew is worth a vist whenever, in fact every time you are on Magazine street. Make sure you stay hungry though, so that you can sample all of it. As in the title, the sliders, donuts and brew.

 

If I'm ever back in New Orleans, I will visit again and do exactly as advised by the name of this fantastic bohemian treasure in the garden district. 

El Trovar, The Grand Canyon

When visiting the Grand Canyon, there are literally only a handful of places to stay. This means that there are only a similar number of places to eat. These range from quick turnover canteens, bars and saloons to the El Trovar fine dining room. With this in mind and because I was celebrating my birthday in the Grand Canyon we booked into the latter for dinner.

Located in the historic El Tovar Hotel, the dining room is rustic and traditional. It is candlelit with plenty of wood panelling. Aparently those who have dined here in the past, include Teddy Roosevelt, President Bill Clinton and Sir Paul McCartney. I would urge caution in interpreting anything by this, bearing in mind that this is the nicest restaurant in the village, but you would have to travel some way to find anywhere else to eat. The menu is described as traditional, integrating both international and local Southwest influences.

We arrived, not quite dressed up as it was cold outside, but dressier than many in the restaurant. We were seated, but unfortunately not by the window so we could not enjoy the view. Gipsy Spread had informed them it was my birthday and he was told they did not do anything special for birthdays.

The bread was brought over by our friendly waitor and we got stuck in, starving from our hike around the rim of the Canyon during the day. Luckily for me there were a few vegetarian options. It was therefore to be the mozzarella roulade sampler for my starter whilst Gipsy Spread opted for the plum chilli glazed sea scallops with jicama slaw (the first time in a long time as he had a bad experience last time).

The food came out relatively quickly and was perhaps larger than at home; our chefs preoccupied with the number three for presentation. The only issue was (and I didn't take a picture!), that the starter I received first was the fish cakes. Whilst receiving two, this was a good sized portion, but it was not my portion. Where the error happened, I don't know (waiting staff or kitchen), but I do know I did not order incorrectly, not having eaten fish in 20 years and having had a lengthy discussion with the waiter about the mozarella roulades. I would also have been really upset if I hadn't realised and eaten a mouthful of it. When mine came out, it was huge. Again, I refer to only expecting to receive about three slices at home. It was good though.

For my main course I opted for the vegetable stuffed mushroom and I asked for the polenta cake rather than the rice it came with. This was a vegan offering so there was no cheese a-top the mushroom. This was fine however as I had just eaten a lot of mozzarella. The mushroom was tasty and I enjoyed it. I make stuffed mushrooms at home a lot, so it did not feel particularly special.

Gipsy Spread had chosen the pork steaks with sundried cherry jalapeno demi. Unfortunately, he also experienced a problem with his meal. The pork was pink inside, which whilst desirable for beef, is not so much for pork. When informing the waiter, he agreed the pork was not cooked and told us he advised the kitchen he would not want his pork like that. So, another plate arrived very quickly.

We decided against any dessert, having had a few issues with the previous two courses. The food was tasty enough, we drank sparkling wine from New Mexico, however, this was not fine dining as I know it. The service from our main water was friendly and efficient when we informed him of some of the errors with the food, but a junior waiter almost spilled a glass of water over our table whilst de-crumbing.  Finally, to add insult to injury, there was no accommodation made of the errors on our bill nor was there any offer of complimentary digestivs. In fact, the fish cakes which had never been ordered, were still our bill and we had to request they be taken off.


This is most likely the best place to eat in the Grand Canyon, however it did not live up to my expectations which was a shame on my birthday. I think Gipsy Spread fared a bit better with his meal. It might just have been that they had a bad day, which is a real shame if the case. A bit more attention to detail would not go a-miss, which is the definition of fine dining. If you manage your expectations when dining here, you may not be disappointed as I was.

The Bombay Club, New Orleans

When I read about the Bombay Club as the restaurant, bar, jazz venue to visit whilst in New Orleans I was a tad confused by the name. I had thought it might have some reference to India or Indian food, but no. We had made a reservation here for the final night in New Orleans, hoping to soak up as much of the City as possible before our departure. We came for the nouveau Creole cuisine, the best martinis in Town and the jazz. Upon entering the romantic candlit venue, all became aparant. The venue is set up like a British Gentleman's Club with plush leather chairs, wood panelling and portraits. The Bombay reference, surely must come from the gin?

 

 



We arrived 10 minutes early for our reservation and whilst waiting for our table to be set, were seated at the bar. I of course, promptly ordered their famous martini. It was good. I was glad that we had booked as the restaurant was heaving, as was the private courtyard. There was live jazz being performaed in the corner and the atmosphere was fizzing with a cool 1930s decadence.

 

The eclectic menu is true to its Southern roots, but takes influences from elsewhere to create a fusion of flavours. What was I going to have? Well, it turned out it was going to have to be the baby spinach and goat cheese stuffed tomato served with wild mushroom risotto and white truffle oil. I was of course dubious about the risotto, but weathered it as it was really only the accompaniment to the stuffed tomato. Gipsy Spread chose the appetizer portion of the moules frites, which were Prince Edward Island mussels sauteed with bacon, garlic, thyme and cream topped with pommes frites. We decided to share some wilted spinach with garlic.

 

 



It all came wonderfully presented. When I cut into my tomato, the combination of garlicy and spicy spinach and goats cheese worked perfectly with the meaty tomato. What really took me by surprise was the risotto. The depth of flavour in the rice was beyond my expectations (we all know how I feel about risottos!). It was actually robust in its flavours, I suspect through the addition of the creole spices of various peppers. It was also fresh and fragrent, perhaps with citrus? All in all, it was the best risotto I have ever had. Upon hearing my delight as opposed to disdain of this dish,  Gipsy Spread had a taste and concurred that it really was delicious. My taste buds had not been impaired by the two martinis I had had!


Gispy Spread also loved his meal. The mussels were big and bold with the flavours of bacon and garlic. His frites were uber crisp, crunchy and delectable. The service was impeccable, the waitrose having confirmed with the chef that my meal was vegetarian. With the back drop of the live jazz, our final night in New Orleans ended gracefully and elegantly. We had one final cocktail in the beautifully lit courtyard, complete with water fountain.


This hidden gem is an oasis away from the bustle and crowds of Bourbon Street. It has the facility to entertain for an entire evening with pre dinner cocktails, fabulous food with jazz accompaniment and then the obligatory digestiv in the courtyard. It has a laid back, cool atmosphere that sings to the same beat as the great City itself. Don't leave New Orleans without visiting, even if just for the Martinis, voted the best in New Orleans nine times.



Louisiana Bistro, New Orleans

We kept walking past this little unassuming restaurant front in the French quarter. It was at the end of the road that our Hotel was on. It was closed every time I went by, all that I could see was the menu on the wall outside. Every time I passed it, I commented to Gipsy Spread that they did the fried green tomatoes which I wanted to try as a local delicacy made famous by the film 'Fried green tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Cafe'. So, it was on our penultimate evening in New Orleans (N'Awlins) and the penultimate dinner of the whole US road trip that we ventured into this exquisite little establishment.

The Louisiana Bistro was perfectly bijou, with a limited number of simply dressed tables in an eclectically old school wooden interior. It was very much in the french bistro style; french Louisiana.

We were seated swiftly by our very friendly waiter and brought bread rolls that had been warmed under a heater. I was slightly dubious when I observed this being done, however, the bread was lovely and crusty and perfect with the chilled salted butter which then melted onto it.

 

I already knew what I was having from the menu, it having taunted and tempted me on my sojourns to and from our Hotel. This was a starter dish, but I anticipated that it would be more than enough for me, especially with the bistro salad on its side. So, fried green tomatoes in a corn crust with jalapeno hollandaise was my main dish. Gipsy Spread had the crab salad with breaded asparagus spears.

 

 

I cut into my fried green tomatoes with delectable delight and savoured the flavours and textures of the dish. It brought a wonderful crunch from the earthy corn crust and then an explosion of natural flavours from the tangy and sweet tomatoes, followed by the rich and creamy hollandaise dancing with heat from the chopped jalapenos through it. This was my kind of dish. The salad was also very crisp and fresh and the balsamic dressing worked well with my tomato dish. Gipsy Spread also very much enjoyed his dinner. The salad was huge and the sensitively cooked crab had an excellent contrast with the crunchy asparagus.

 

 

I was done and simply had a digestiv of amaretto as prompted by the waiter. Gipsy Spread however had a whiskey, but also the highly recommended cream cheese ice cream with balsamic berries. I of course, for the purposes of research, then had to have a taste test. It was deliciously creamy, with sweet and tangy tartness from the berries and balsamic vinegar.

I think if you are in New Orleans and wanting a taste of the South, then a visit here is core to the itinerary. The restaurant is good old fashioned Louisiana Creole cooking, delivered exceptionally well. Is it any wonder that it has been voted the best restaurant in New Orleans by the people on Trip Advisor. If you are visiting New Orleans, you will be eating. If you only have one meal, make sure its here.

 

Yusho, Monte Carlo, Las Vegas

We were just over the half way mark on the US Road Trip tour and I was full. Full from all the eating and the larger than I'd eat at home meals. We had been walking past Yusho on the strip fairly regularly and having finally taken a look at the menu, decided that this japanese street food restaurant would be just the antidote to the large meals we had been feasting on so far.


We booked a table and arrived to find that just in front of the restaurant we would be serenaded by live singing. We had a table outside as it was hot and we could observe the entertainment and people watch over the strip.

 

Whilst the lounge classics flowed, we perused the menu and noted the very comprehensive sake menu. So we thought 'when in Rome...' or rather, a Japanese restaurant in Las Vegas... We asked the waiter, who knowledgably advised us of the sake that would work best with our meal. This was the Kikushi Funaguchi. It was a very easy to drink and delicate sake and I enjoyed it over ice very much. 

 

 

Japanese street food is a bit like tapas, you can order as many or as few dishes as you wish. With the whole purpose of the meal being to eat a little less and more healthily, Gipsy Spread and I opted for three dishes. One each and one to share. The first was the Shishito peppers with ponzu shallot and lemon. A simple looking dish which packed plenty of flavour.

I then followed this with the tofu steak with shiso, pinapple and praline, whilst Gipsy Spread had the grilled duck breast with shitake marmelade and scallion. It all came out exquisitely presented.

 

 

Everything tasted very fresh and again was a combination of flavours that I had not experienced before, but truly loved.  I wish I had come here when I was hungrier to partake in more of the dishes. Not being able to help ourselves and with the temptation of another unusual flavour combo, we decided to share a dessert of pannacota, curry, honey and citrus. Clearly, this is a rare find of a dish.

 The panacotta was as good as any, creamy and rich with vanilla. It had sweetness from the honey and a wonderful earthiness from the curry, possibly overtones of tumeric. I have no idea how they did it, but this was a beautiful dish, garnished with lemon, pistachios and shards of sugar.

 

 

Of the whole US road trip, this remains one of my favourite meals, not least because I'm a huge fan of small plates, providing variety. I tried some new flavours and flavour combinations and the service was efficient and friendly. The view on to the strip is also fabulous and reminds you that you are most definitely in Las Vegas.

 

 

When you are bored of the burgers, fries and pizza, head to Yusho for a fabulous Yakitori-inspired culinary escape to the streets of Japan.

Broadway Burger bar, New York New York, Las Vegas



Las Vegas is teeming with places to eat and drink and the massive choice like the grand City itself can be quite daunting. Keen to sample as much of the American experience as possible we decided this was the day (and the place) where we would try our first burger and fries on these shores.

 

 

It was therefore fortuitous for us that in our Hotel, in the back drop of soho New York, that the Broadway burger bar could be found. We had previously reviewed its extensive burger menu and with the variety of  vegetarian choices for me, it clearly seemed like this was as good a place as any to have this ubiquitous meal.

 

 

 

I am familiar with the insertion of the portabello mushroom between the sheets of a bap to constitute the 'burger', but I was also taken with the panko crusting and pairing with artichoke and tomato relish and guacamole in the Bella burger. Gipsy Spread channelled his inner Woody (Toy Story) and opted for the Cowboy burger which was a beef pattie topped with applewood smoked bacon, barbecue sauce, crisp onions and pepper jack cheese. We then had to pick our fries. Hand cut, skin on and topped with plenty of garlic, yes please.

 

 

We were ravenous when it arrived and dove in hungrily. We were not to be disappointed, having waited a full 10 days since our arrival for this classic American dish. My burger was crispy and the mushroom juicy and flavourful. It was complemented wonderfully by the slightly sweet and tangy relish and nutty guacamole. Gipsy Spread was equally as enamoured with his and we both thoroughly enjoyed the fries, topped with plenty of fresh garlic to keep the vampires at bay.

 

One of the things that I love about the US is their wide range of chilli sauces, various heats, an array of different chilli peppers and colours. Here, they also asked me what chilli sauce I wanted and with the excitement clear on my face, the waitress bought me all of them to pick and choose from. Needless to say I gave most of the hot ones a go.

 



 



So, if you are ever in Las Vegas and wanting to sample the local fare, this is not only as good a place as any, but perhaps a far better place than most for a burger. I'd suggest tying a visit into a trip on the New York New York roller coaster which soars over the top of the restaurant. I would suggest however, that you do the roller coaster first.

Pear and chai spiced cake

The last week of excessive eating and drinking for my boss's departure from the Department is finally upon us. So, it was cause for more baking. The final cake I'll make for some time now, especially as we hit the road (Jack) on Thursday and will be sampling plenty of US delicacies along the west coast. My inspiration for this cake was the fact that we are drowning in very ripe pears which needed to be eaten, so like the berry, cardoman and rose cake before it, inspiration struck (and it involved ingredients I had in the house).


What you will need
250g plain flour
1 tea spoon ground ginger
1 tea spoon ground cinnamon
1/4 tea spoon ground cloves
1/4 tea spoon ground black pepper
125ml golden syrup
1/2 tea spoon vanilla essence
150g sugar
175ml vegetable oil
150ml water
1.5 tea spoons bicarbonate of soda
2 eggs
4 pears


Glaze
2 table spoons apricot jam (or marmelade is fine)
50ml golden syrup
1 table spoon water


Mix together the dry ingredients (flour, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, sugar and bicarbonate of soda).


Next, add the oil, water, vanilla essence and eggs and whisk together to make a light and airy batter, before adding the golden syrup and mix together.


Finally, peel and core the pears and slice into half vertically.


Pour the cake mix into a 20cm cake tin and top with the pears. Place in a pre-heated oven at 180 degree for 1 hour or until crisp on the outside and cooked through.


Take the cake out of the oven to cool, whilst making the glaze.


Place the apricot jam, golden syrup and sugar in a pan to warm through and reduce for about 5 minutes until coating the back of the spoon.

Carefully top the cake, using a brush or spatula.

 

Serve the cake on its own or with some cream.

Bourbon and Branch Speakeasy, San Francisco

This blog isn't strictly anything to do with eating, but there was some good drinking involved. It was our last night in the City, so where else to go than the Wilson and Wilson Detective Agency for some prohibited libations. It was with this sentiment in mind I made a reservation for us at Bourban and Branch. A reservation is necessary. You won't get in without one, not least because the fake-fronted bar will email you the secret password which changes regularly and which you will need to have to hand for entry past the door man.

 

 

So, password in hand, we headed in the direction of the bar. Not quite clear what to expect, we walked past it and only when I asked the small gathering of individuals about the address that they noted they were also waiting for entry. Aware that this non descript doorway was our promise to some Speakeasy drinks, we waited to be invited to give the password and entered solemnly excited into the dark interior.

 

There are clear house rules in Bourban and Branch and with this in mind, I was not able to secure a photo of the cool wooden interior and the tall glass chandelior. Some of the tables were made of barrels and we were seated in such a bijou booth; just big enough for two to sit cosily.

 

It was table service for drinks and the staff were really helpful when I looked up and expressed my daunt at the extensive drinks menu. She asked whether I liked gin, I expressed that it could yet be my ruin, and she recommended the club cocktail - a heady concoction of gin and vermouth. Thats it. Gin and Vermouth.

 



We sat across the bar (photo borrowed from the website) in glee at our surroundings, enjoying the music and people watching the fashionable locals leaving and arriving. I should also say that a reservation here might also be time limited as we did have to move on as they were fully booked all evening. In this case, the gourgeous bar staff escorted us to the bookcase with our drinks, where upon pulling on one the said books, we were escorted through a secret passageway to their sister bar in the Library. Whilst still dark, I did manage some photos below.

 

We sat here and I happily finished my second Club Cocktail.   What a fantastic experience. It was not just decorated like a speakeasy, but the whole extravaganza from being emailed a password, locating the venue behind its detective agency veneered fronting, to the secret doorway in the bookcase to the Library was a spectacular performance. It was done exceptionally well and I found the whole event exciting and thrilling and felt very spoilt indeed. Do not miss out on visiting here if in the City - its a fabulous birthday venue and I wish I could bring all my friends back here with me to share the enjoyment I felt.